Amalfi Coast Travel Guide for Newbies

Looking to plan your first visit to the idyllic Amalfi Coast after more than a year of wanderlusting over a vacation? Same.

Most visitors to southern Italy tend to lump the Amalfi Coast as one location, clustering the entire Sorrentine Peninsula into a singular location. However, these cities actually differ quite a bit and are unique in their own right, with distinctly beautiful topographies and personalities found throughout each. The peninsula is composed of idyllic towns strung together by sea, precipitous cliffs, salt-bleached pastel-villas, art and history – not to mention spectacular vistas and cuisine. 

The Amalfi Coast extends in the Gulf of Salerno, composed of some of the most famous destinations in Italy from Positano to Ravello, and Amalfi. To the west lies Sorrento, a stunning clifftop resort-village, saturated with hotels, boutiques, markets and restaurants.

There's the glitz and glam of Positano, home to Aperol-spritz sipping sunbathers lounging under symmetrical rows of orange and green umbrellas on the rocky beach. Heading south towards the sea is the town of Amalfi, the one-time Maritime Republic after which the coast was named. 

From picturesque islands, incredible nightlife and a vibrant culture, the energy of southwestern Italy is one-of-a-kind and should be a destination added to any traveler’s bucket list. This region doesn’t have to be reserved for honeymooners only.

For Amalfi-Coast novices, streamlining exactly where to stay and go and what to see is simple (and can be pretty affordable) with some thoughtful planning. It’s easier than one would think to live “la vita bella!”

Sorrento
Often overlooked due to its neighbors, this majestic outpost warrants individual recognition and praise. Better connected to mainland than Positano or Amalfi, Sorrento embraces the Gulf of Naples, making for the perfect home base to traverse an explore.

Hugged by lush vegetation and citrus groves, the high cliffs of Sorrento serve up some dramatic views over the bay of Naples and the Lattari Mountains. For a scenic stay, consider booking a hotel room in Sorrento proper, taking advantage of the city’s accessibility and unobstructed view of Mt. Vesuvius. We chose to stay at the breathtaking Grand Hotel Royal. Perched on the cliffs overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, the romantic property is adorned in traditional Italian décor, with polished inlaid wood furniture, traditional crystal chandeliers and shiny marble columns. The rooms mirror this aesthetic, adorned with coastal touches, like hand painted ceramic tiles and pops of white and blue throughout.

The hotel offers high-quality cuisine served at the scenic La Terrasse Royal restaurant, with a selection of seasonal ingredients showcased in an array of local dishes. Set amongst the jagged cliffs and surrounded by a lush garden of trees, La Terrasse creates an elegant atmosphere, enhanced by the glow of candlelight and views over the Gulf of Naples. For afternoon indulging, guests have access to the La Villeta spa, a private beach (elevator to beach included) and a sun-bathing platform as well as a stunning pool set in an idyllic garden. 

For a bit of local sightseeing, the Piazza Tasso is Sorrento’s main square and central hub surrounded by shops, restaurants, bars and cafés. Here lives the beautifully Baroque Church del Carmine and the Palazzo Correale and the heart of the city’s shopping district, with the main streets of Corso Italia and Via San Cesareo. Local vendors offer unique souvenirs, such as custom leather goods, woodwork, hand-painted ceramics and an incredible assortment of citrus, mainly lemons and lemon-based products. 

Why lemons you may ask? Well for starters, they don’t call Sorrento “the city of citrus” for nothing. The lemons harvested are HUGE (some almost football sized when picked straight off the vine!). They are also extremely aromatic, with their unwaxed rind holding lots of rich essential oils and a delicate pulp containing very few seeds. For these reasons, limone di Sorrento are the perfect lemons for just about anything really, but especially perfect for homemade limoncello-based desserts and liqueur. In Sorrento, you’ll often find folks strolling the sidewalks eating fresh lemons out of hand and sprinkled with sugar as a summertime snack. They’re also frequently sliced paper thin and layered inside fresh fish or before cooking for a light, bright and flavorful secondi course. 

For those looking to sit and take in the sights, check out the ever-nostalgic Fauno Bar located in the main square. This is the ideal spot to grab a glass prosecco and watch the world go by in Italian time. The bar also offers an amazing choice of late-night drinks, a variety of complimentary nibbles, pizza and prime people-watching views.

Positano 

To explore the region outside of Sorrento, opt for a private driver who could brave the rugged coastal highway and two-lane traffic fearlessly. This is the pivotal time to take in all the views during the 30-mile thrill ride of narrow, curve-heavy roadway snaking up cliffs with the waves crashing beneath. Yes, the scenery is majestic, but the journey is difficult to maneuver for the common traveler. So rather than holding on for dear life, being able to sit-back and soak in the incredible scenery during the drive down the Amalfi Coast is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Riding in awe of the azure sea which seemed to touch everything in sight, drivers are greeted by tea-cup stacks of pastel villas etched vertically into the craggily mountains, peppered with olive trees and bright pink bougainvillea. Bunches of old fishing houses have now been renovated into boutique hotels or private B&Bs for holiday seekers – and although tourists are now privier to accessible accommodations in the area, Positano still exerts an upscale allure of exclusivity, with a pull on the rich and famous as it has since its heydays of the 1950's jet-set lifestyle. Be prepared for lots of walking as travelers make their way down to the famous Marina Grande Beach, iconic for its breathtaking views of the cascading houses hanging and the iconic rows of orange and green sun umbrellas dotted along the spiaggia.

If sleeping outside of Positano, there is always the option of enjoying one of the best hotels in the destination, by making reservations (way in advance) at the famed La Sponda restaurant at the Le Sirenuse Hotel. The outdoor dining terrace is iconic for its sweeping vistas of the Lattari Mountains and the beach below. The view alone is enough to satiate one’s appetite, but choose  to overindulge on the Michelin-starred fresh Mediterranean fare. The menu is based on fresh ingredients and inspired by the great culinary traditions of Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Infused by the leisured elegance of Positano’s dolce vita, La Sponda is illuminated in the evening with four-hundred gleaming candles that create an unforgettable atmosphere. For those who do seek overnight accommodations in Positano, Le Sirenuse is certainly an incredible choice.

Be sure to visit the beautiful domed Church of Santa Maria Assunta, which houses a famous black Byzantine Madonna icon dating back to the 13th Century. To note, if you’re planning your visit to Positano during the summer, consider landing around the ‘Feast of the Assumption,’ which is a joyous local celebration that takes place every August 15 and centers around the famous Madonna icon.

Along with sightseeing, Positano offers the splendor of relaxation, with incredible seafood, shopping and sunbathing at its finest!

Amalfi 

About an hour down the coast, lies ancient Amalfi – a tranquil place with clusters of white buildings gleaming like pearls against the sapphire sea. Amalfi is also one of the more level towns along the coast, as it angles up the hillside from the water rather than clinging vertically, making it a bit easier to walk around. As one of the most prestigious and historic towns along the Amalfi Coast, it lived a glorious history as a maritime republic and powerhouse due to its location. Building codes have restricted today’s construction from obstructing views and from skewing traditional architecture. The town's many shallow rooftop domes are actually filled with sand, providing insulation to regulate temperatures and keep things cool in summer and warm in winter.

Amalfi begins at the edge of the Mediterranean, with the Piazza del Duomo (duomo translates to Cathedral) as the focal point of the historic center. The piazza is bustling with cafes and boutiques, but the steps leading to the church urge for a climb to the Byzantine-style building, with lavish Arabic-influenced archways and architecture. The duomo is said to house the relics of Saint Andrew the Apostle, which were brought here from Constantinople after the Fourth Crusade and for a while kept in Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome. In 1964 the skull of St Andrew was returned to this church from St Peter’s as well. 

Another worthy stop in Amalfi is the Paper Museum, located in a 13th-century paper mill and offering insight in to the town’s long history of papermaking – the museum even houses the vintage water-powered machinery used back in the day for the trade. 

After enjoying some stunning scenery and rich history, take a breather at Pasticceria Panza, a world-famous famous pastry store, offering a wide selection of handmade limoncello based pastries and homemade desserts.

If you fancy exploring further ahead, consider a private boat trip to the heavenly, hidden beaches and grottos of the Amalfi Coast or a trip to the remarkable island of Capri. Southern Italy holds an abundance of beauty to explore, so regardless of where you choose to visit, “Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life.” – Anna Akhmatova

Remember to always keep Galavanting! x Alexia